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Playa Carillo, near Samara Costa Rica, photo by Scott Sherwood, 2022
How to Make Friends
(or Frenemies) While Travelling
by Scott Sherwood
There’s a unique charm to a place like Sámara, Costa Rica. Nestled on a stretch of beach five kilometres long on the Nicoya Peninsula, it’s the kind of town where time slows down, where the locals smile easily, and where the weathered signs on the shops speak of a slower, simpler life. Kathy and I had taken up temporary residence there, renting a place at one end of the beach while the heart of Sámara bustled with activity at the other.
We’d settled into a routine, adopting some healthy habits as one does when surrounded by sun, sand, and the lure of a longer lifespan in a Blue Zone. Every morning, Kathy and I would blitz fresh celery into juice, revelling in the thought that our hair was growing glossier and our eyes sparklier with each green gulp. But there was a problem: celery.
Every morning, Kathy and I would blitz fresh celery into juice
Not the celery itself, mind you, but acquiring it. You see, Sámara, like many a small town, has limited resources. The town’s health-conscious epicentre was a little shop called Sámara Organics, run by a genial fellow named Dave. Dave was the kind of guy who greeted everyone with a smile, offered occasional shots of ginger juice on the house, and had a store packed with all the organic goodness that made you believe your body could forgive you for every single late-night chiliguaro binge.
Every Tuesday morning, Sámara Organics received a fresh batch of produce. They’d stack it up by the entrance—bright bunches of carrots, gleaming green zucchinis, and, most importantly, celery. But it was a cutthroat game of first come, first serve, and as the village’s health enthusiasts descended on the racks like bees to nectar, the celery would vanish faster than you could say “kombucha cleanse.”
After a couple of weeks of missing out, I decided it was time to up my game. No more sauntering in mid-morning like a tourist on vacation. Oh no. I would be there right at 8:00 a.m., ready to snag that celery before anyone else could so much as sniff its chlorophyll-filled splendour. And it worked. I triumphantly secured our week’s supply, every last bunch, and sauntered back home along the beach, crossing the little rivers that cut across the sand—rivers that, rumour had it, occasionally hosted crocodiles, which in retrospect, added a bit of adventure to my grocery run.
The next Tuesday, I repeated the operation, and the next. It became a routine: Scott versus the rest of Sámara in the Great Celery Scramble. On one of those victorious mornings, just as I was leaving Sámara Organics with my leafy bounty, an elderly woman blocked my path. She was short but formidable, with a heavy Italian accent and a look that could wither even the freshest of vegetables. She pointed at my overflowing cardboard box of celery and launched into a rapid-fire reprimand in Italian. I didn’t catch all of it, but I gathered that I was not a hero in her story.
With a shrug and a nervous smile, I mumbled something about “first come, first serve,” and made my escape, feeling her glare burn into my back. It wasn’t until I reached the safety of the beach that I dared to glance back, half expecting her to be in hot pursuit, arms flailing.
The following week, the pattern repeated. I swooped in, scooped up the celery, and, just as I reached the cash register, there she was again—Italian Nona, her expression a mix of indignation and desperation. It was like being caught in a weird hybrid of a travel documentary and a Fellini film. There was some wild gesticulation, a few more Italian phrases that I’m almost certain were curses, and I, feeling thoroughly chastened, sheepishly put two bunches back on the rack.
The look she gave me as she snatched them up could only be described as…triumphant. It was as if she had just conquered Everest—or at least its celery-covered foothills. I slunk out of the store, clutching the remainder of my purchase and my pride, both somewhat bruised.
The next Tuesday, I considered donning a disguise—perhaps a pair of oversized sunglasses and a floppy hat, or at the very least, a wig and fake eyebrows. But I quickly realized that not only would it make me look like a confused spy at a beach party, it would also slow down my river-crossing speed, giving the crocodiles an unfair edge. So, I took a deep breath, steeled myself for the inevitable showdown, and marched determinedly back to Sámara Organics.
She filled her arms with celery, leaving me with two lonely bunches
Sure enough, she was there, waiting. This time, we entered the store together, shoulder to elbow, and moved towards the produce like two ageing gunslingers in an Old West duel. I decided to be the bigger person (figuratively, since she barely reached my shoulder) and let her take the first pick. She filled her arms with celery, leaving me with two lonely bunches.
As I shuffled up to the cash register, feeling as though I’d lost some strange, unspoken battle, I watched her leave, her step light and victorious. She’d won, and she knew it. I, on the other hand, was trying to think of a way to explain to Kathy how I’d been bested by an Italian Nona who, for all I knew, had placed a hex on our juicing ambitions.
Dave, the shop owner, had been watching our weekly drama unfold with quiet amusement. As I stood there, holding my pitiful celery offering, he leaned across the counter, his eyes twinkling.
“You know, Scott,” he said, glancing conspiratorially around the shop, “we can set some aside for you each week if you want. No extra charge.”
I stood there, blinking at him in stunned silence. All this time, all these celery skirmishes, and I could have just asked? Dave grinned, and I realized, with a mix of relief and embarrassment, that sometimes, the simplest solutions are the ones you overlook when you’re too busy fighting the battles—both real and imagined—that life throws your way.
And that, my friends, is how you make (and potentially lose) friends while travelling: one celery stalk at a time.
Scott Sherwood
Author
Since 2021, Scott has been wandering the world with his wife Kathy, collecting stories, misadventures, and enough frequent flyer miles to accidentally qualify as a pilot.
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